How shirts are made, what should be considered in its production; You can find answers to these questions in this article. All stages in shirt production, such as cutting, sewing, final controls, folding and packaging, are very important.
Shirt production and variety are reshaped according to the trends of each season and offered to customers. Regardless of gender and age, shirts decorate everyone's wardrobe with their elegance in the autumn period.
You can find the trendy shirts of the new season at Trio Shirt Company or you can get one step ahead of your competitors by having your own designed shirts made by Trio Shirt Company.
Slit, Cuff and Pocket Technical Studies in Shirt Production
In response to the question of how to make a shirt, we will first look at the slash, cuff and pocket Techniques.
What is Apartura?
In order for the shirt to be put on and taken off easily, there is some opening on the sleeve, in the cuff area. This left opening is called an arm slitter. Apartura, on the other hand, is a piece of fabric that is sewn on the upper edge of the arm slit opening and the tip can be in different shapes (like triangle, rectangle).
Apartura Types
The width and shape of the apartura are made according to the demands of the customer. Models in apartura can be in the form of buttonholes, buttons and snaps. We can list the apartura types as follows;
Upper Apartura:
-
Classical, triangular-turn apartura.
-
square-turn apartura
Lower Apartura:
-
Bias tape apartura
-
self-twirling apartura
Things to Consider When Preparing Apartura
-
Care should be taken when adjusting the dimensions of the triangle apartment.
-
If the fabric is striped, attention should be paid to the harmony with the lines on the arm.
-
Apartura must be suitable for the slit size.
-
Whether it is a square or a triangle, the rotation of the apartment should be considered
Cuff Definition and Types
Definition of Cuff
It is the part that is put into the mouths of the sleeves of the shirt, which makes the clothes easy to put on and take off. The cuffs are sewn on the cuffs by fusing. Buttonholes, buttons, snaps etc. can be used to close the cuff.
Cuff Types
-
Cuffs separated by shape.
-
Straight cuff.
-
Round cuff.
-
Angular cuff.
-
Special cuff
Pat and Collar Technical Studies in Shirt.
Definition of Pat
It can be defined as additional fabric applied to different parts of the shirt for easy donning and taking off the shirt. Pat can also be used to decorate the shirt and make it look more aesthetic.
Shity Pat Types
-
Secret pat.
-
Ribbed or jointed pat.
-
Introverted pat.
-
Open pat.
-
Mostrali pat.
-
Ironed pat.
-
Half-turn pat.
-
Split tip pat.
Points to be Considered in Pat Sewing
-
During pat sewing, care should be taken to ensure that the upper and lower widths are equal to each other in order to avoid any problems afterwards.
-
Interlining suitable for the structure of the fabric should be preferred.
-
Care should be taken for the upper seams of the paste, as it will be visible.
Collar Types Used in Shirts
Definition of Collar
Collar is a piece that is added to the neck of the shirt with different shapes and application techniques in terms of both giving an aesthetic appearance and making it easier to wear.
Collar Types
-
Tippet.
-
Tuxedo collar.
-
Self standing shirt collar.
-
Footed shirt collar.
Interlining Types Used in Shirts and Their Properties
Cloth interlining or paper interlining is generally used in shirts. Cloth interlining is preferred for thick and washed shirts such as denim and jean, while paper is preferred for thinner fabrics.
Shirt Collar Sewing Procedures
Points to be considered during collar sewing:
-
Care should be taken to keep the collar straight while sewing.
-
The lower collar should never protrude.
-
The collar must match the size of the shirt.
-
Care should be taken to ensure that the ends of the collar are symmetrical.
-
Care should be taken to ensure that the line and square at the ends of both collars are equal.
-
It is very important that the quality of the interlining to be used at the end of the collar is suitable for the fabric.
Technical Shirt Sewing Process
Side seam techniques of the shirt:
-
Clean seam.
-
Overlock stitch.
-
English stitch.
Shirt Cutting Operations
One of the most important answers to the question of how to make a shirt is the cutting process of the fabric. While preparing the fabric for sewing, care should be taken to avoid any errors in sewing during the cutting of the fabric.
-
Before cutting the fabric, all the patterns needed for the sewing process must be removed.
-
Buttonhole and button templates should be ready.
-
Before starting the cutting process, it is necessary to mark the molds according to the features of the stitch to be made.
-
Necessary seam allowances should be given.
-
If it is a machine washable product, the necessary tests should be done and the shrinkage values should be calculated.
-
The marker plan must be ready.
Points to Consider in Shirt Cutting
The following points should be considered while cutting the shirt:
-
Warp yarn, pile direction if any,
-
The line of the fabric, the direction of the plaid and pattern,
-
The flexibility and thickness of the fabric,
-
While cutting the fabric, care should be taken to follow the lines and to use the blade properly.
Machinery Park Determination
In order to make better use of the time, rearranging the steps of the sewing process according to the type of the product that is being produced and the system of the machine, is called machinery park domain.
Things to consider when arranging the machinery park:
-
The machine park should be in accordance with the determined work flow.
-
Any adjustments that would slow the flow should be avoided.
-
While determining the machine park, care should be taken to find the passage area of the employees.
Preparatory Procedures Before Sewing Shirts
Definition and Purpose of the Regulation
Regula is to make fine cuts according to the removed pattern after the rough cutting of the fabric, in accordance with the process to be made. In short, regula is to cut the excess parts from the rough cut.
Automatic regula can be made with a knifed straight sewing machine in the cuff, collar and collar belt overall process.
Final Ironing and Final Controls on Shirts
The shirt ironing sequence after sewing is as follows:
-
Collar.
-
Front body.
-
Back body.
-
Arm sections.
Points to Consider While Ironing the Shirt
Depending on the type of fabric, the temperature and steam level must be adjusted. After ironing, it is necessary to make sure that the fabric does not stretch, let loose and shrink
Final Checking of the Shirt.
Posture form control
To look at the posture of the shirt, it would be better to evaluate the shirt on a live mannequin. The following parts are reviewed again:
-
General view of the shirt,
-
The stance of the collar and its fit to the body,
-
The fit of the arms to the body and each other,
-
The cuffs fit the arm and each other,
-
Compatibility of aparturas to each other,
-
Equality of button and buttonhole areas,
-
Pocket stance,
-
Shoulder, sleeve, skirt and side seams,
-
Wrinkle,
-
Stain control,
-
It is paid attention to whether there is fabric error or not.
Measurement control should be made according to the measurements and tolerances in the model sheet provided. The size tolerance should not exceed the half size.
Material Compliance Control
It is to check the compatibility of the main and auxiliary materials used. The following points should be checked:
-
The harmony of the labels with the fabric,
-
The position of the buttons,
-
The compatibility of the collar with the fabric.
Correction Procedures After Checks on Shirts
Correction in Mold
First, a sample is sewn from the mold and the size adjustments are made on this sample and submitted for the approval of the customer. Then it is rearranged according to the wishes of the customer. Posture shape control and measurement control are made, if there is an error and it is caused by the mold, the mold is rearranged
Making Changes to the Material
If there is an incompatibility in the materials used or if low quality materials are used, they should be replaced.
Change in Sewing Techniques
At the end of the measurements and controls, if there is a defect in the posture form and this defect is caused by the sewing, sewing techniques are changed.
Packaging
The packaging process is done according to the requests of the manufacturer or the customer.
Sample packing process is as follows:
-
When packing shirts, unprinted and imported bags should be used.
-
The parcels to be used must be unprinted.
-
Each assortment should be placed in small boxes. However, both assortments can be placed in one big box.
